Exquisite Restaurant Reviews
It’s a balmy, sun drenched September evening in Braunton. We meander eagerly towards the Corner Bistro situated elegantly on the Square where a dozen destinations cross. As we approach, we wonder, what does the word ‘bistro’ suggest? For us, it’s pretty French towns, long lazy mornings people watching, seeing another world go by, coffee and
croissants. In short, we wonder, will the Corner Bistro in Braunton, North Devon have that certain ’je ne sais quoi‘?
We enter the beautifully refurbished premises, themed in warm burgundy and gold décor. The bar faces us, bedecked with a promising coffee
machine and fabulous vase of fresh flowers. Greeted by the owners, Emma and Andrew, we are welcomed and escorted to our table for dinner.
A cosy environment, crisp white linen cloths, neatly folded napkins.
Driftwood candle holders cradle tea lights, reminding us of our coastal
location. Pictures of a time gone by adorn the walls and French style
music plays. We are immediately aware of a calm, beautifully relaxed atmosphere that careful attention to detail brings. Outside, gleaming
aluminium tables and chairs seat al fresco diners, no doubt recalling that great wave ridden, or holiday enjoyed.
The menu arrives. It reveals simple, unpretentious seasonal food with a clear emphasis on locally sourced, quality ingredients. It might be Dordogne on the walls but it’s definitely Devon on the menu. Reassuringly, there are just four starters, four mains, and four sweets. This is cuisine from the heart, not the bag!
As we peruse, we are served nibbles. Spicy chick peas and succulent black olives. The wine list is extensive and unusual, also featuring
microbrewery lagers, ales and ciders. We plump for a Rocket
Chardonnay 2005 vin de pay d’oc. A crisp vibrant quaff alive with flavour and zing. Our food arrives. Brixham Crab Salad with dressed baby salad leaves and mayonnaise. Wholemeal bread is brought to the table with
butter portions on a natural slate square. Also, smoked Lundy mackerel, with beetroot, horseradish and crème fraiche salad.
The crab is moist, carefully seasoned and gorgeous. The smoked mackerel is the freshest possible.
Beautiful presentation and generous portions. More bread… the breads, lovely… And here comes the mains…
Sea bass with saffron mash, and sauce vierge along with sugar snap peas with a lime, coriander and tomato dressing. And a meat choice… Steak au poivre, an 8oz Westgate Farm rump steak with fat chips and buttered French beans, served with cracked pepper and cognac sauce.
The sea bass is delicate and sweet, the dressing fragrant, fresh and does not overpower this beauty of the sea.
The beef is mature and tasty, the cognac sauce deep and flavoursome, and the chips are exceptional. As for the portions - bountiful. Would there be room for a sweet?!... for the benefit of our readers we willingly
surrender. Bistro brownie served warm with hot chocolate sauce and Langage Farm clotted cream ice cream. Comforting, gorgeous home cooking. Also, crème brulee, with Ashford Inn raspberries and almond biscotti. Luscious, with the most perfect raspberries.
We round off with quality Costa
coffee. We enjoy conversation amid the chatter and laughter of a
restaurant full of happy customers, or are they already friends? We leave content, and eager to return another day. Whether for bacon and eggs, light tasty lunch or a cream tea, we heartily recommend the Corner Bistro to you all.
Oh and does it have that certain je ne sais quoi?. This little Bistro has it in buckets and spades.
For more information please visit The Corner Bistro website
